As our 4-month South-East Asia adventure drew to a close, we were amped for our final stop – the Philippines. Mindanao’s recent unrest and our dwindling cash flow had us on edge, but we weren’t about to let that stop us. We had ten days to cover a ton of ground and five flights to catch. It was gonna be hectic (and the itinerary was not looking good for my carbon footprint), but hey, that’s the name of the game when you’re on a tight schedule.

Everyone had told us to hit up Palawan, Boracay, and Cebu, and we weren’t mad about it. Those places were undeniably stunning with their pristine beaches and crystal-clear waters. But we wanted to go off the beaten path and check out something less hyped. And that’s how we ended up at Bohol Island.

This island was a hidden gem that few knew about. But we were all about the tranquility and beauty it had to offer. The palm tree-lined roads and white-sand beaches had us feeling like we stumbled upon something special. And we were stoked to add it to our itinerary.

Holly at the chocolate hills, Bohol

Bohol Island is the tenth largest paradise in the Philippines. It’s eco-friendly, it’s chill, and it’s perfect for the adventurous backpacker. You won’t find the hordes of tourists here like you would in El Nido and Boracay. But that’s exactly why we love it.

Most people come for the Chocolate Hills, and don’t get us wrong, they’re epic. But there’s so much more to this island than meets the eye. It’s a hidden gem, waiting for the curious traveler to discover its secrets. You might spot a few tourists from the Panglao Island resorts, but for the most part, you’ll have this tranquil escape all to yourself. Bohol Island is a breath of fresh air, far from the hustle and bustle of the tourist traps. And that’s what makes it so damn cool.

Getting To Bohol

A lot of people get internal flights from Manila to Bohol. Always one to take the scenic route, however, it was cheaper for us to fly to Cebu and ferry across the rest of the way.

We caught an early morning Ferry from Cebu City to Bohol’s capital city, Tagbilaran. The main ferry company is Ocean Jet, which takes approx. 2 hours.

The view pulling into Tagbilaran

Things To Do In Bohol

Loboc River

One of my favorite Bohol attractions was the Loboc River. This whimsical little slice of Bohol doesn’t get nearly enough attention as it deserves. This is where I felt truly off the beaten path. The river snakes through Bohol and is flanked by rows upon rows of palm trees. You will also see small villages and Filipino homes concealed within the lush greenery.

There are so many activities to be had on the Loboc River, including; stand-up paddleboarding (my favorite!) zip-lining over the river, and Banca rides (small Filipino outrigger boats). However, the main thing I loved about Loboc was the locals. Staying near the river means you get to be immersed in their day-to-day lives; seeing children catching the river ferry to school, families fishing for their dinner, or markets buzzing with life (of course I bought some fruit from the stalls too).

The one thing I regret not doing on the Loboc River was the scenic river cruise and lunch. Since going I’ve seen more and more photos of the food that was on offer, and it looks like a Filipino dream! Again, I guess I’ll just have to go back.

Firefly SUP

Still, in the Loboc area, you absolutely can not leave Bohol without going firefly watching. Where I was staying offered up a sunset paddleboarding tour down the river. At first, it’s eerie. But, you soon get to appreciate the peaceful nature of it. You can hear the sounds of chirping and wildlife, and the flanking palm trees create shadows on the water. However, when you see the fireflies in the trees you’ll be completely and utterly captivated by them. This was another example of photographs not doing it justice – not unlike swimming in the bioluminescent plankton in Cambodia.

The river comes alive with fireflies at night

Chocolate Hills

Arguably the most popular attraction, and probably the main reason people (including me) include Bohol on their Philippines itinerary. Some of natures finest work, the Chocolate Hills of Bohol stretch for miles upon miles in most directions.

Why are they called the Chocolate Hills, you ask? Because during the dry season the grass dries up and turns brown, thus creating a decadent looking landscape which obviously reminded everyone of Aeros. There are 1268 hills covering an area of 50 sq. km, so it’s obvious why some dub them as the Eighth Wonder of The World.

The main Chocolate Hills lookout in Bohol is Carmen, and the easiest way to get there is by scooter. Entrance fee is 50 PP. The only gripe I had with the Carmen lookout was the number of people (as usual). It was very hard to see the full view, save for a few spots that became free in the soup of selfie-sticks.

Butterfly Conservation Centre

An interesting find on Bohol island was definitely the butterfly sanctuary. A place that was never high up on my list of things to do or see, the sanctuary was a welcome rest stop.

The center is located on route back to Loboc from the Chocolate Hills. Originally stopping to grab a bottle of water, Phil and I ended up spending an hour walking around the sanctuary. Here you can find a wealth of beautiful butterflies, some of the Philippine’s largest species of moth, and a beautiful garden enclosure to walk through. The enclosure is netted, and once inside there were hundreds of flowering plants and a sunny area where the butterflies congregate for feeding. I even had a few curious butterflies land on me while wandering around.

Getting Around Bohol

Staying near Loboc meant being isolated from Bohol’s main tourist track. The easiest way to get around the island on your own terms Is to hire a scooter. There’s such a sense of freedom that comes with having your own transport that you simply can’t get with taxis or tuk-tuks. Also, the feeling you get whizzing through the forests, rice paddies, and alongside beaches and rivers just can’t be matched when cramped in the back of a rickety tuk-tuk.

Where To Stay In Bohol

Most tourists tend to stay in the Alona Beach and Panglao Island area of Bohol, known for their resorts and holiday-feel. However, we stayed at the Fox and the Firefly Cottages, right in the heart of Bohol and next to the Loboc river. Fox and the Firefly are isolated from the main cities and towns, and the stay was pure bliss. We stayed in a 4-bed dorm which we had to ourselves, but you’re able to stay in private cottages.

If you’re keen to stay close to the main track, most tourists stay near Alona Beach or the general Panglao Island area. Here, you’ll find caves, white-sand beaches, and an abundance of restaurants to suit your needs.

Virgin Island – Bohol

To sum up, Bohol island is more than meets the eye and definitely worthy of a spot on your Philippines itinerary. I only wish I was given more time on this jungle-laden island to really appreciate the diverse eco-system which is over-shadowed by it’s neighboring islands. There are so many more experiences to be had here; the tarsier sanctuary, the man-made forest, hidden caves and reefs, Christian cathedrals, and rice terraces to only name a few!

When planning where to go in The Philippines, please add Bohol to that list and put it right at the top!

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